South Face vs North Face of Mount Everest

Last Updated: June 03, 2025

Tweet

Climbing Mount Everest is more than just a journey, it’s a life-changing adventure that every mountaineer dreams of. Standing tall at 8,848.86 meters, Everest offers both profound personal insights and extraordinary physical challenges. Today, let's explore two legendary routes to this iconic summit, the South Face in Nepal and the North Face of Mount Everest in Tibet.

Like me, you might be wondering which face provides the experience you're seeking, whether you crave solitude, affordability, or reliable infrastructure. Let’s dive in!

Everest North Face

The Tibetan Side The North Face, situated in Chinese-administered Tibet, begins at the easily accessible North Base Camp (5,150 m). Unlike the South Face, climbers don’t have to trek to reach the starting point; instead, they typically drive from Lhasa through scenic towns like Gyantse and Tingri, finishing at Rongbuk Monastery.

Why Choose the North Face?

1. Cost Efficiency: Permits from China’s Mountaineering Association range from $15,800 to $18,000, making total expedition costs approximately $30,000–$45,000, considerably cheaper than the South Face.
2. Less Congestion: Fewer climbers mean less crowding, creating a more personal climbing experience.
3. Avoids Khumbu Icefall: This notoriously dangerous obstacle on the South Face route is completely bypassed.

Challenges of the North Face

1. Extreme Weather: Influenced by the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, temperatures plummet to -30°C, with relentless winds elevating risks of frostbite.
2. Technical Difficulty: The Second Step (8,610 m) is incredibly challenging, featuring near-vertical climbs that significantly raise risks.
3. Limited Rescue Options: Helicopter evacuations above Advanced Base Camp (6,400 m) are nearly impossible, complicating emergencies.

Everest South Face

The Nepalese Side The South Face route is in Nepal, famous for its breathtaking approach through the Khumbu region. Climbers must trek for around 10–12 days, from Lukla to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m), passing iconic landmarks like Namche Bazaar and Tengboche.

Why Choose the South Face?

1. Better Safety Infrastructure: Helicopter rescues are feasible, and the route receives ample sunlight, creating slightly warmer conditions (-20°C to -30°C in winter).
2. Established Routes: Supported extensively by Sherpa guides, with established camps and more predictable conditions.
3. Less Technical Summit Approach: The Hillary Step, although tough, is less demanding than the North Face’s Second Step.

Challenges of the South Face

1. High Costs: Permit fees alone reach up to $15,000 during peak spring seasons, with total expedition costs between $40,000–$80,000.
2. Crowds: The popularity results in significant congestion, especially around the Khumbu Icefall.
3. Dangerous Khumbu Icefall: Climbers must repeatedly navigate this avalanche-prone zone, making it the route's most lethal section.

Comparing Geography: Tibet vs. Nepal

North Face (Tibet): Tibet offers rugged terrain, influenced by the cold, arid conditions of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Base camp accessibility by road simplifies logistics but does little to mitigate the harsh climate conditions.

South Face (Nepal): Nepal's route lies within the dramatic Mahalangur Himalayas. Its trek offers spectacular views but requires significant physical exertion and acclimatization, with frequent weather challenges including snow and rain.

Weather Conditions

1. North Face: Harsh, dry, cold. Frequent high winds and lower temperatures.
2. South Face: Milder and wetter due to monsoon influence. Unpredictable but generally more stable during spring and autumn.

Route Comparison

North Face Route:

From Base Camp (5,150 m) to Advanced Base Camp (6,400 m), through the North Col (7,000 m), culminating in the highly technical Second Step before reaching the summit.

South Face Route:

Begins at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m), navigating the hazardous Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm, Lhotse Face, South Col, and finally, the Hillary Step.

Safety and Risks

1. North Face: Higher risk from exposure, altitude sickness, limited rescue capabilities, and technical climbs.
2. South Face: Higher risks from avalanches and falling ice, primarily in the Khumbu Icefall; better rescue infrastructure.

Support and Infrastructure

1. South Face: Superior infrastructure, reliable Sherpa support, and well-organized rescue operations.
2. North Face: Limited support facilities, fewer Sherpa teams, and constrained rescue options.

Final Thoughts

Ultimately, choosing between Everest's North and South Faces comes down to your preferences and risk tolerance. If you’re like me and value solitude, affordability, and can handle extreme challenges, the North Face might be your choice. Conversely, if you seek greater safety, solid infrastructure, and are prepared for higher costs and crowds, the South Face is ideal.

Climbing Everest is always life-changing, no matter the route, leaving climbers forever enriched by their experiences at the top of the world.