North Face of Mount Everest: Route, Challenges, and History

Last Updated: February 12, 2025

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There are around 20 named and 100s of known routes to climb everest, yet 98% of climbers prefer the north or south face of Everest. The south face is located on the Nepal side, while the north face is on the Tibet (China) side.

The north face is seen as the easier route to climb Everest; however, only half as many people use the north face compared to the south side. You might be wondering why fewer climbers choose the north. Well, don’t worry, we will explore that in today’s guide.

Where is North Face Everest Located?

North Face is the northern side of Mount Everest, located in Tibet at the coordinates 27°59′N and 86°55′E. It is situated at the 3,000-meter height of Rongbuk Glacier Lake.

The first attempt on North Face was made in 1921 by a British expedition team, but ultimately, they failed to complete the summit, which reached up to 7003m. After the successful summit from North Face was made in 1960 by the Chinese team, the dangers and steps of North Face were explored.

Steps Involved in North Face of Everest

What are the sections of Everest's North Face? While there are various routes to the summit, we will discuss the steps involved in the standard (North-Col) route. This guide starts from the base camp and goes to the summit.

The steps involved in climbing through North Face are as follows:

1. Base Camp - 17,000 feet

North Col Base Camp is located at the foot of Rongbuk Glacier, 5,150 meters above sea level. It is the starting point for climbing Everest. Generally, climbers spend 2-3 weeks here adjusting to the altitude and temperature. The journey here is easy; you can take transportation like a truck or yak.

The temperature at the base camp ranges from -10 degrees C (14 degrees F) during the day to -25 degrees C (-13 degrees F) at night. Visitors commonly experience frostbite and gastrointestinal infections.

2. Advanced Base Camp (ABC) - 21,300 feet

After crossing Base Camp, you will reach Advanced Base Camp at a height of 6,340 metres. It will take 22 km of trekking to reach it from Base Camp. Generally, climbers stay here for 1 to 2 weeks.

The ABC acts as a staging ground for climbers to store their high-altitude gear and oxygen supplies. Common hazards at Advanced Base Camp include icefall collapse, dehydration, and pulmonary edema.

3. Camp 1 (North Col) - 23,000 feet

After trekking 2.5 km from the ABC, you will reach the North Col (Camp 1). Generally, it takes 6 to 10 hours to reach this point from the Advanced Base Camp. Climbers sleep for 1-2 nights here to test their stamina and gear.

From the first camp, you need to ascend the 50-60°C north Cole ice using the fixed ropes.

4. Camp 2 - 24,750 feet

Next is the second camp, which is the Second Camp at the North Face of Mount Everest. This is also known as the Transition point, as it is the mid between the normal and the death zone.

Here, climbers can find temperatures dropping to -40°C(-40°F) and even colder, with an average wind speed of around 80 km/h. Tent collapse and frostbite are possible, making this camp known as the riskiest.

5. Camp 3 - 27,390 feet

Camp 3 is the final camp before attempting the summits. It is located in the death zone at an elevation of 8,300 m. Due to the higher risks, climbers don't stay for more than two nights here.

Climbers must navigate through the various layers of rock and icy gullies. Generally, experienced climbers begin using their oxygen supplements from this point, although many start earlier.

6. Yellow Band

The yellow band consists of layers of limestone, marble, and phyllite and is located at an elevation of 8,200 to 8,600 meters. These formations developed over millions of years from oceanic rocks that were formed into the Himalayas by the collision of the Indian and Asian tectonic plates.

The steep and slippery rock makes it harder for climbers to pass through, which is one reason why the area above 8,000 meters is called the death zone.

7. First Step - 27,890 feet

After Camp 3, the first step is at an elevation of 8,500 m. This is a tall rock tower measuring 10 m (approximately 33 feet), which climbers must ascend using the fixed ropes provided.

It is less technical than the second step but dangerous due to its perpendicular height. George Mallory's body was found here.

8. Second Step - 28,140 feet

The second step on Everest's North Face, at 8,580 feet high, is a very challenging part of the climb. It has a steep 30-meter vertical rock face that climbers must carefully ascend, making it one of the toughest sections for those attempting to reach the summit from the north side.

In 1975, an aluminum ladder called the Chinese Ladder was added to help climbers during this tough journey. This ladder was replaced with a safer version in 2007. The original ladder is now displayed at the Tibetan Museum at Mount Qomolangma.

This is where the body of Green Boots and the Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest was found.

9. Third Step - 28,500 feet

The third step occurs just after completing the first step. It is known as the easier step to climb, as only 10 meters (33 feet) of height are required. After the third step, the summit arrives.

10. The Summit - 29,035 feet

After completing the third step, you will be at the top of the world, Mount Everest, at a height of 8,848 m. Here, climbers stay for less than 15 minutes due to the thin level of oxygen and extreme cold.

First Person to Climb From the North Side of Everest

The first attempt to climb Everest from the north side was made in 1921 by a British team, which reached an altitude of 7003m. It is said that the first successful climb from the north side occurred in 1924 by George Mallory and Andrew Irvine during a British expedition. However, there is not enough evidence to prove that. If that did happen, then they climbed 29 years before Tenzing and Hillary.

Chinese climbers achieved the official first summit of Everest from the north side on May 25, 1960. This route was easier to climb but posed a significant risk at the second step. To mitigate that risk, a Chinese team installed a ladder, making the north face of Everest a popular route in the mid-1990s.

Chinese climbers Chun-Yin, Wang Fu-Zhou, and Tibetan Nawang Gombu were the first to cross the second step of Everest in their socks (without ladders).

South Face vs North Face of Everest

While the north face is considered the easiest way to climb Everest, much equipment and support are still available on the south face, which attracts more people to climb the south side of the mountain.

Some key differences between the North and South Face of Mount Everest are:

1. Logistics

On the north face, the truck can go up to the base camp and can transport all your essential needs like gas, pizza or bread. While on the south side, you need to hire porters or yaks to get all these items to base camps.

2. Climbing Difficulty

The North Face of Mount Everest is easier to climb physically, but technically, it becomes more challenging due to the lower resources. The South Face is easier, as resources like a helicopter and medical support are easily available there.

3. Weather Conditions

The north face is colder and windier compared to the south face. While the south face is warmer, there is a risk of heavy snowfall, which poses a greater danger for climbers.

4. Popularity

The North Face of Everest is less popular due to limited resources and strict permits from China. In contrast, peaks in the south are popular and frequently climbed due to easier permits and greater resources.

5. Rescues

Rescues are harder from the North side due to the remote and steep terrain. On the south side, helicopter evacuation is available up to Camp 2.

The table comparing the Everest North Face and South Face is as follows:

Key Points	North Face Everest	South Face Everest
Location	North Face is located in Nepal (North Side of Everest)	South Face of Everest is located in the south side.
Logistic	Trucks can take essential logistics up to base camp	Need to hire porters or yaks to transport items.
Difficulty	It is colder and windier	Less colder and windier
Weather	Less popular due to strict permits	More popular due to easy procedures
Popularity	Less popular and climbs	More Popular
Rescues	Rescues are harder due to steep terrain	Easy helicopter rescues up to Camp II

Conclusion

Mount Everest's north face is a famous climbing route that is both exciting and tough. It has a lot of history and is challenging to climb due to its slippery and steep areas. While this side is easier to climb than the south edge, climbers still don't prefer this route due to limited resources and strict permits.

Climbing through Mount Everest's north face requires very careful planning regarding climbers' health, condition, and the temperatures on Everest. Even with these challenges, the continuous climbing records and history show the passion and determination of people to conquer the hardest parts of nature.

FAQs

Q1. Is the north side of Everest harder?

The north side of Everest is physically easier to climb, but the lack of resources, such as helicopter evacuation, makes it more difficult compared to the south face (Nepal side).

Q2. Has anyone climbed the North Face of Everest?

By December 2024, a remarkable 3,728 climbers have successfully summited Mount Everest via the North Face.

Q3. How much does it cost to climb Everest through North Face?

Climbing the North Face is more affordable than the South Side. While costs may vary, you can expect to spend between $35,000 and $45,000 for an ascent from the North Side.

Q4. Is The North Face brand related to the North Face of Mount Everest?

The North Face is a brand inspired by the North Face of Mount Everest. It was founded in 1966 in San Francisco by two hiking enthusiasts, Douglas Tompkins and his wife, Susie Tompkins.